You will need a protective thermal material (I use Insul-Bright), batting or flannel, and the decorative fabric you want for the outside. You will also need a dinner plate, a pen, scissors, a sewing machine, and an iron.
Cut Your Materials
As I mentioned above, I use Insul-Bright as my thermal layer. I'm sure other brands are available, but I've always had good luck with this one. It has a reflective layer in the middle to prevent heat from coming through the pad.
|I am not affliliated with the company that makes this.|
You are going to cut five circles for each pad:
One of your thermal material,
|Draw around the plate. You can use a smaller plate if you want a smaller hotpad, though it can be more difficult to bind the smaller size.|
|Cut out with scissors.|
Two of cotton batting (or cotton flannel),
And two of your decorative fabric.
|These may be the same fabric, or you may choose two different ones.|
Layer Your Hotpad
First, place one of your decorative fabrics on a surface, right side down.
Second, add a layer of batting.
Third is your thermal layer.
Fourth, a second layer of batting.
Finally, add your second layer of decorative fabric, right side up.
You can pin or clip these together as you like.
|On the right, you can see that I have already prepared my binding strips.|
You can quilt these with a straight line grid or with free motion quilting (FMQ). I used FMQ because these small items give me a low-pressure chance to practice the technique.
Here are my quilted pads.
Bind Your Hotpads
I use binding cut at 2.5" wide. I then press it in half, so I have a double layer.
To determine the length you will need, multiply the diameter of your pad by π (3.14):
in my case, 10.5" x π = 32.97",
so one width-of-fabric strip (about 40") will be plenty with a little left over. You may cut bias strips if you wish, but I've done them both ways, and I found no advantage to bias over straight grain strips.
Sew the binding around the hotpad, easing it around the curves. Dont rush; this isn't hard, but it does take time. Join the ends as you would any binding.
Here is one with binding attached:
|I promise it won't have a ruffle when you are done!|
Trim your seam to reduce bulk.
Now, turn the binding toward the back side,
and stitch it down. You can do this with your sewing machine, or as I do, by hand.
I made several of these in one day; the project lends itself to an assembly-line process. Here are my results:
Most of these are double-sided. Here they are flipped over:
If you decide to do double-sided ones, be sure to choose a binding color that works with both sides.
You may wish to press these with steam when you are done to ensure they lie completely flat.