Sunday, June 28, 2015
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
A spiderweb quilt is a type of string quilt and is constructed basically the same way (previous tutorial with instructions here). The difference is that instead of beginning with a square foundation, you begin with a triangle.
As with the square foundation, you secure your center strip. (I use a washable glue stick.)
Add a strip to one side of your center fabric.
Fold back and crease with your fingernail or an iron.
Add a second strip to the other side.
|Each of these has a center and one strip on each side.|
Continue to add strips until your triangle is covered. Trim as shown in previous tutorial.
Four triangles will be sewn together to create a star. As you line up the stars, the spiderwebs form.
|Your eyes are not deceiving you--this picture is of another spiderweb I made!|
A basic spiderweb quilt has all the stars in straight rows.
A serpentine layout has off-set blocks. I first saw this layout on the Quiltville blog here. Note the difference in the rows of stars. While the vertical columns are straight, the horizontal rows are off-set. This is accomplished by adding a half-block at the bottom and the top of every other vertical column.
Rather than creating spiderwebs, this off-set layout creates the serpentine pattern.
I'm not much of a snake fan (even the word serpentine brings "a tighter breathing, And zero at the bone" to quote Miss Dickinson), so I prefer the idea of the currents in a stream. Combined with the fact that all the prints in this quilt are florals, I chose the name Flowing Flowers for this quilt.
Here are close-up shots that show the backings I chose for each of the spiderweb quilts shown above.
If you enjoy making square string blocks, give the triangles a try. It is fun to see the secondary patterns come together.
Tuesday, June 16, 2015
You will need a protective thermal material (I use Insul-Bright), batting or flannel, and the decorative fabric you want for the outside. You will also need a dinner plate, a pen, scissors, a sewing machine, and an iron.
Cut Your Materials
As I mentioned above, I use Insul-Bright as my thermal layer. I'm sure other brands are available, but I've always had good luck with this one. It has a reflective layer in the middle to prevent heat from coming through the pad.
|I am not affliliated with the company that makes this.|
You are going to cut five circles for each pad:
One of your thermal material,
|Draw around the plate. You can use a smaller plate if you want a smaller hotpad, though it can be more difficult to bind the smaller size.|
|Cut out with scissors.|
|These may be the same fabric, or you may choose two different ones.|
|On the right, you can see that I have already prepared my binding strips.|
You can quilt these with a straight line grid or with free motion quilting (FMQ). I used FMQ because these small items give me a low-pressure chance to practice the technique.
Here are my quilted pads.
Bind Your Hotpads
I use binding cut at 2.5" wide. I then press it in half, so I have a double layer.
To determine the length you will need, multiply the diameter of your pad by π (3.14):
in my case, 10.5" x π = 32.97",
so one width-of-fabric strip (about 40") will be plenty with a little left over. You may cut bias strips if you wish, but I've done them both ways, and I found no advantage to bias over straight grain strips.
Sew the binding around the hotpad, easing it around the curves. Dont rush; this isn't hard, but it does take time. Join the ends as you would any binding.
Here is one with binding attached:
|I promise it won't have a ruffle when you are done!|
Trim your seam to reduce bulk.
Now, turn the binding toward the back side,
and stitch it down. You can do this with your sewing machine, or as I do, by hand.
EDITED TO ADD:
Recently, I've been adding hanging loops to these.
Easy to do--just use about 5" of your binding to make a double-fold strip and layer it in when you sew on the binding.
I made several of these in one day; the project lends itself to an assembly-line process. Here are my results:
Most of these are double-sided. Here they are flipped over:
If you decide to do double-sided ones, be sure to choose a binding color that works with both sides.
You may wish to press these with steam when you are done to ensure they lie completely flat.